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| SALINAS GRANDES. Owns 21,200 acres of salt between the provinces of Salta and Jujuy. (Photo: JP) |
Nothing can survive the salt, and sometimes even the will. Las Salinas Grandes , located 70 kilometers west of Purmamarca (Jujuy), is part of the heritage of the sea that covered the entire highlands during the Cretaceous Period of the Mesozoic era . Are 212 square miles of salt flats in which there can live almost any life form, which has a crust thickness of 30 centimeters on average.
Human life can be overwhelming even there. When you reach the "dead sea" salt only are some artisans to the closure of road and a small hostel with tables made of salt rock. There, two men cut stones with grinders and make figures, all clogged every inch of your skin and wear sunglasses. Away from the glare of the salt (hard to see) a woman sells soft drinks, water and charges two dollars for permission to use the bathroom of the place (the only one to several miles of this post).
next to a mud house and out truckloads of raw salt. Day and night extracted raw material then leads to refining plants.
the road. The road between Salinas Grandes Salta and can be divided into three sections: the connection Salta, San Salvador, the path to Purmamarca Route 9 and from there the 70 miles down the Cuesta de Lipan to the destination.
to the capital of Jujuy the route is flat and motorway. The most striking tracks begin to take Route 9. From the town of Yala promotions begin more pronounced for the car, but all soft. Only in the town of León began the most beautiful views, we can see how the river is named these people zigzagea between the mountains and from the road, when there is silence in the absence of cars, you hear the water hitting the rocks.
The cemetery at the top. The last post before Purmamarca is a village of adobe houses called Tumbaya. His Church is the oldest building was built in 1796 and painted yellow. In 1813 during the War of Independence was shot by the English, but there is still maintained. An elderly man, with dark skin, fine lines very marked and the staff is open daily at 11 am so that visitors can know it. I talked to him
a long time: most of his life has been devoted to take care of that temple. Finally I invited the only weekly Mass is celebrated Saturday at 7 pm, other days the church operates as a museum for the curious.
Finally, the living on the streets of Tumbaya seen the dead in above . From any point of people looking up to the northwest you can see the gravestones and niches of the village cemetery. Communion with life and death is endless. Walking down the street Buenos Aires, the only paved the people, from north to south, the cemetery appears as a ubiquitous sight.
Purmamarca . The entrance to the town of Jujuy is a detour via Route 52, where you have to move about five miles. The colors of the hills are mixed with folklore of the place: in the main square offer typical artisans (many of them imported from Bolivia) and the main restaurants are located. At the east end, after a difficult climb on foot, you see the Cerro de los Siete Colores.
Tips: There is only one ATM in Purmamarca (the only in 40 miles.) From Salta it takes to reach just over two hours. If you arrive at noon, lunch is highly recommended kid spit with a glass of Tannat wine and dessert, cheese and walnut with cayote. Finally, it is best to fill the tank in Salta and Jujuy, as we move towards the north the nearest service station is in Tilcara.
Road ledge. To reach, cross the Salinas Cuesta de Lipan, located between 5 and 60 km of Route 52. There he rises to 4,200 meters high, the temperature drops dramatically and exceed [between December and March] the line of clouds. The slopes are steep and require handling with great care, never more than 40 or 50 miles per hour. Among
Purmamarca and Salinas is 70 miles, travel time is approximately 1 ½ hours.
Human life can be overwhelming even there. When you reach the "dead sea" salt only are some artisans to the closure of road and a small hostel with tables made of salt rock. There, two men cut stones with grinders and make figures, all clogged every inch of your skin and wear sunglasses. Away from the glare of the salt (hard to see) a woman sells soft drinks, water and charges two dollars for permission to use the bathroom of the place (the only one to several miles of this post).
next to a mud house and out truckloads of raw salt. Day and night extracted raw material then leads to refining plants.
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| ROUTE 52. Hostel where hinder tourists and trucks carrying salt. (Photo: JP) |
to the capital of Jujuy the route is flat and motorway. The most striking tracks begin to take Route 9. From the town of Yala promotions begin more pronounced for the car, but all soft. Only in the town of León began the most beautiful views, we can see how the river is named these people zigzagea between the mountains and from the road, when there is silence in the absence of cars, you hear the water hitting the rocks.
The cemetery at the top. The last post before Purmamarca is a village of adobe houses called Tumbaya. His Church is the oldest building was built in 1796 and painted yellow. In 1813 during the War of Independence was shot by the English, but there is still maintained. An elderly man, with dark skin, fine lines very marked and the staff is open daily at 11 am so that visitors can know it. I talked to him
a long time: most of his life has been devoted to take care of that temple. Finally I invited the only weekly Mass is celebrated Saturday at 7 pm, other days the church operates as a museum for the curious.
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| CHURCH. Religious epicenter of the town of Tumbaya, Jujuy. Above right, the cemetery (Photo: JP) |
Purmamarca . The entrance to the town of Jujuy is a detour via Route 52, where you have to move about five miles. The colors of the hills are mixed with folklore of the place: in the main square offer typical artisans (many of them imported from Bolivia) and the main restaurants are located. At the east end, after a difficult climb on foot, you see the Cerro de los Siete Colores.
Tips: There is only one ATM in Purmamarca (the only in 40 miles.) From Salta it takes to reach just over two hours. If you arrive at noon, lunch is highly recommended kid spit with a glass of Tannat wine and dessert, cheese and walnut with cayote. Finally, it is best to fill the tank in Salta and Jujuy, as we move towards the north the nearest service station is in Tilcara.
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| PURMAMARCA. Village Plaza, where most trade handicrafts. (Photo: JP) |
Purmamarca and Salinas is 70 miles, travel time is approximately 1 ½ hours.
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